Thomas Slee

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End of May 2009

 

verifying if the new rubber matches with the new glass

 

 

carefully fitting a new door rubber using a plastic tool

 

I had some difficulties getting this part of the rubber in. This was probably due to the rubber being new and, earlier this year, the low outside temperature. Hints: silicone spray and a (soft) plastic tool are very helpful for getting rubbers in. Using hot water to make the rubbers more soft is not recommendable, instead (if possible) install the rubbers with high outside temperatures.

 

 

checking whether the door handle bases ('door opening mechanisms') are working with the new doors. While stripping the doors, most of the parts were nicely labeled and grouped. Unfortunately, some of these parts were burned in the garage fire and others got messed up at the restoration workshop. Luckily most of the parts have a part number on them, but strangely enough not these. As front and rear are different (and rear ones also fits in the front doors), it was a case of trial and error.

 

trial fitting of the door lock mechanisms.
Hints: when fitting these kind of parts it's very recommendable to order new grommets, bushes etc. in advance at BMW's. When I planned to fit the rest of the door control / opening mechanism, I found out the hard way that the connection rods for opening the doors from the inside should be installed at the same time with the door lock mechanism (as they hook into each other).

 
 

 

hints for quick installation: it helps to first install the door handle bases really properly (although they may not be well positioned). Then use (painters) tape underneath where the handle will be placed in order to not damage any paint when using the screwdriver. The door handles should then be installed were they belong. Next, it is key to loosen the door handle base a little bit just to the point when it's possible to position the handle properly. Then the two nuts should (obviously) be re-tightened. Gently try if your door handle operates properly and doesn't scratch the paintwork. Afterwards, make sure you remove the tape immediately to avoid any problems with the paint.

 

proper anti-rust treatment is imperative for a rust-free door in the future, when these steel tabs were bended into the correct position,

 

 

trial fitting of the fixed door window, rubbers and especially the mounts of the chrome window guide.

 
 

 

checking alignment of this part with the door.

 

 

turns out the necessary screws (51 13 1 823 634) were NLA. The ones on the picture are almost the same, so I used these to install the guide rails.

 

after the engine bay was welded in the workshop, the sheetmetal on the other side was, by mistake, not treated properly with paint! I only discovered this when I got the chance to collect the car after months of waiting. Since I didn't have enough time to do the job properly, I quickly applied some clear coats of paint. In the near future, I will use a 3M scotch-brite purple (or blue) to remove the little rust (if any) that is now present. Afterwards Caprotech RX-5 will be used, followed by a normal primer and of course polaris 060.

 
 
 

 

In the workshop I'd already remove the rust and was able to treat it with an anti-rust primer. Future plans are to tidy it up a bit further and to renew the sound deadening here.

 
 

 

verifying whether the rubber window guide fit.

 

 

these rear guide rails were refurbished, in order to do so the mounts had to be removed (rivets were drilled out). Unfortunately it turns out that rivetting them back together is not an easy job as it is nearly impossible to get the rivet tool in position for its job

 
 
 

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